Vegan leather’s mainstream moment? Aussie footwear brand Rollie introduces cactus-based shoes

Plant-based leather alternatives are stepping closer to the mainstream, Rollie founder Vince Lebon says, after the label debuted a line of derbies, boots, and sandals comprised of cactus leather.

Australian-born Rollie recently unveiled nine new shoes constructed from Desserto cactus leather, a material derived from the fibrous biomass of select cactus.

Desserto, which operates across Mexico and Italy, puts its product forward as a more sustainable alternative to ‘traditional’ vegan leathers, which are often comprised of petroleum-based materials.

The brand also markets the material as hardy, flexible, and breathable, making it a viable contender to animal-based leathers.

Rollie has previously utilised Clarino, an artificial leather made of synthetic fibres, and Piñatex, a material largely derived from the fibrous material of pineapple leaves.

Even so, Desserto’s combination of sustainable bona fides and everyday wearability is a significant development in the plant-based footwear space, said Lebon.

Plant-based leathers have  “improved dramatically” in recent years, Lebon told SmartCompany.

“From when we first worked with Piñatex to make pineapple leather – an innovation founded in the Philippines by Dr. Carmen Hijosa, a Spanish Creative & Innovation Officer – to now, we’ve seen the quality of alternative leathers go from sub-par, to in some cases the materials having better properties than leather in terms of breathability and durability.

“Anything synthetic can be engineered to enhance performance and I think this is the beauty of plant-based leather alternatives.”

Plant-based materials positioned as an upgrade

Vegan and vegetarian consumers have long opted for synthetic leather alternatives for ethical reasons.

Yet Lebon’s focus on Desserto’s material performance speaks to a bigger market: consumers who don’t mind what their footwear is made of, so long as it looks good, feels comfortable and lasts a long time.

Response to the new Desserto line has been “super positive” to date, Lebon said, a positive sign for a brand hoping to put plant-based alternatives in front of mainstream fashion consumers.

“There’s a key group of people who are very appreciative of vegan options, and we’re committed to producing vegan products for them,” said Lebon.

“But [we] want to make sure our vegan products have mainstream appeal beyond those actively searching for it.”

Rollie boots made of Desserto cactus leather. Source: Supplied

Despite the ongoing market dominance of traditional leather goods, Lebon hopes rapidly-advancing materials science and a push for supply chain sustainability will alter those preferences.

“Our goal is for people to not even think about the materials, but for them to choose the best products on offer,” he said.

“I think it’ll become mainstream when consumers think about the benefits over the use.

“For example, consumers currently buy fly knit sports shoes not because it’s an alternative to leather but because of its benefits of breathability.

“Likewise, I think eventually people will look to plant-based leathers for their benefits.”

Australians sticking the (vegan) boot in

Rollie is not the only Australian-born company to focus on plant-based alternatives.

Tattarang, the investment firm overseen by mining magnate Andrew Forrest, last year invested $26.8 million into plant-based textile developer Natural Fiber Welding.

That investment raised hopes of bootmaker R.M. Williams, also owned by Tattarang, eventually unveiling a plant-based version of their own boots.

Vegan R.M. Williams are still some way off, but local competitors like Blundstone, and now Rollie, are testing the market for ankle boots made of non-animal materials.